Updated on September 21, 2026
Truffles are experiencing a genuine surge in popularity and have never been more prominent on our plates. At Louis XV – Alain Ducasse at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, however, Executive Chef Emmanuel Pilon prefers precision over passing trends: respecting the season, distinguishing between white and black truffles, and allowing the ingredient itself to dictate the dish. Here, the chef discusses these two treasures, their character, and the best way to bring out their qualities.
Which dishes will be served with truffles at Louis XV – Alain Ducasse this autumn ?
Emmanuel Pilon : At the autumn, we primarily work with white truffles. I do not believe they should be used merely as an accompaniment; rather, they should be the dish’s focal point. Black truffles appear from late November to early December, reaching their peak in January and February. During this period, we will offer a vegetable dish centred on Jerusalem artichoke, salsify, and black truffle.
Who are your suppliers ?
Emmanuel Pilon : For black truffles, we collaborate with Gilbert Hugou, based in Rougiers, Var. He handpicks the finest truffles from the region and is present at the renowned Richerenches truffle market, one of the most esteemed in the world.
Do you work with the two types of truffle in the same way ?
Emmanuel Pilon : Absolutely not. White truffles are rarely cooked. I pair them with simple preparations, such as fresh pasta or risotto, adding a bit of fat to release their aromas without masking them. Black truffles can be used either raw or cooked. Cooking brings out different aromas and produces a different texture. In both cases, the chef must step back and let the ingredient take centre stage.
Do you have a preference ?
Emmanuel Pilon : No. Whether white or black, each truffle has its own identity, season and personality. They evoke different emotions.
Which pairings do you particularly enjoy ?
Emmanuel Pilon : With white truffle, I keep things straightforward: fresh pasta, risotto, and lightly buttered dishes. Black truffle lends itself to more robust pairings: meat, roasted vegetables, and rich concentrated jus. I love its woodland notes.
What do you think of truffle-flavoured products ?
Emmanuel Pilon : It is important to distinguish between flavoured oil, flavouring, essence, and genuine fresh truffle. Nothing can quite compare to a fresh truffle enjoyed at the peak of its season: that is when it displays all its finesse and complexity.
What does truffle represent to you ?
Emmanuel Pilon : It is a remarkable ingredient that must be approached with humility. The dish should revolve around it : the truffle ought to guide the creation and leave the most enduring impression.
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